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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.